By Bill Hylton
Learn from a professional find out how to make the 10 most sensible joints utilizing your strength tools!
In Bill Hylton's Power-Tool Joinery you'll study shop-tested suggestions and causes as to the why's and how's of joinery. additionally integrated are plans for jigs and furniture that can assist you lower person joints adequately and thoroughly. This in-depth advisor can have you slicing joints like a professional in no time!
Learn to chop those robust, tightly geared up joints with quite a few uncomplicated energy tools:<UL>• side joints• Dado joints• Rabbet joints• Miter joints• Splined joints• Sliding dovetail joints• Dovetail joints• Lap and half-lap joints• Mortise-and-tenon joints• Biscuit joints</UL>
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Extra info for Bill Hylton's Power-Tool Joinery (Popular Woodworking)
Do the same with a hardwood ripping of the same thickness. When I did it, the hardboard broke pretty cleanly, right at the vise’s jaws. The hardwood broke at the surface, then pulled some long fibers. Spline Materials The nature of the spline can have an impact on the method you use to cut the grooves. You can use solid wood or plywood for the splines. Hardboard and MDF aren’t good spline materials, in my opinion, because they have no grain. Without grain, these materials cannot reinforce a joint.
The deeper the rabbet, the less end grain exposed in the assembled joint. In the double-rabbet joint, both the mating pieces are rabbeted. The rabbets don’t have to be the same but typically they are. The rabbet works as a case joint and as an edge joint. Case joints generally involve end grain, while edge joints involve only long grain. In casework, you often see rabbets used where the top and/or bottom join the sides (end grain to end grain), and where the back joins the assembled case (both end to end and end to long).
Use the same pusher for both cuts; simply roll it over between cuts. jo_050_059_P5 4/5/05 11:49 PM Page 54 54 C H A P T E R F I V E A stopped cut in a flat miter involves tipping the workpiece back, aligning it over the bit, then plunging and feeding to the stop mark. While a tall fence facing helps steady the work, a pusher always seems unnecessary. Lay out the extents of the slot on the workpiece’s reference face. Align them with marks transferred onto the tabletop from the bit to control the length of the cut.